20 December 2024

Patagonia is well known for its expansive national parks showcasing rugged natural beauty, but there are also many lesser-known areas outside the major parks worth exploring. For those seeking adventurous off-the-beaten-path experiences, the remote regions of Patagonia offer stunning glacial lakes and challenging volcano hikes you may never have heard of. 

Past Ruta 40: Chile Chico and Lago General Carrera

One excellent region in which to start your remote Patagonia adventure is Past Ruta 40 (Route 40) in northern Patagonia. This area encompasses the little town of Chile Chico on the shores of Lago General Carrera, the second-largest lake in South America. While Lago General Carrera is one of Patagonia’s true natural gems, receiving far fewer visitors than its sister lake, Lago Buenos Aires, further south, it remains largely undiscovered by international tourists.

Glacial Marvel Lago General Carrera

Forming part of the natural border between Chile and Argentina, the sapphire waters of Lago General Carrera stretch over 100 kilometers in length. Fed by over 30 glaciers, which give its water its signature milky-blue hue, the lake freezes over in parts during winter. It is surrounded by densely forested mountain peaks and glaciers which creep down to the shoreline. Some of the most iconic views can be spotted from the Mirador Carrera, located on a cliff above the lake along Ruta 242.

Hiking in Chile Chico

The small town of Chile Chico, situated on the lake’s western shore, makes for a good base to explore the region. From here, several scenic day hikes depart, such as the Sendero Laguna del Ají, a 4-hour roundtrip traversing native lenga forests to a picturesque teal lagoon. More experienced hikers can tackle the multi-day Sendero de Chile Chico, a rugged 55km route circuiting the Cerro Pali Aike volcano with camping along the way. Lake excursions and boat tours are also available from Chile Chico to appreciate the lake’s natural wonders from the water.

Where to Stay Around Lago General Carrera

While Chile Chico has a modest selection of hostels, restaurants, and services, it is best to book accommodations in advance during the high season. Estancia El Cadillal situated on the southwestern shore, offers top-notch estancia (farm) style stays with views of the lake and horse rides. Basic family-run hostels and cabins are also available on the lake, like Altos del Lago Hostel. Camping is permitted along much of the shoreline as well for those fully equipped. No visit is complete without stopping for fresh steamed centolla (king crab) and chilled local wine in Chile Chico.

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Further South: El Chaltén and Mt. Fitz Roy Area

Continuing the journey further south, Past Ruta 40, another remote Patagonia gem lies in the shadow of iconic Mt. Fitz Roy, close to the popular El Chaltén in Santa Cruz Province. While El Chaltén draws hikers to its extensive network of trails leading to Laguna de Los Tres and other Lake District highlights, lesser-visited areas nearby offer unspoiled nature and challenges.

Trekking to Laguna Alumine

Situated northwest of El Pilar, an unsanctioned yet highly rewarding off-trail route leads to the beautiful Laguna Alumine through the native lenga forest. The 8-10 hour roundtrip trek gains over 600m in elevation but rewards with unspoiled views of the northern flanks of Mt. Fitz Roy. Hikers should possess excellent route-finding skills and self-sufficient backcountry navigation ability due to the lack of formal trails or facilities along the way. Going with a guide is highly recommended for this advanced off-trail hike.

Ascending Lower Cerro Fitz Roy

While climbing the iconic turrets of Upper Fitz Roy requires technical mountaineering experience, the non-technical ascent of Lower Cerro Fitz Roy offers a scenic challenge suitable for fit trekkers. The 7-9 hour roundtrip hike gains 1100m in elevation to a col with superb 360-degree panoramas, including the south face of Fitz Roy. Departing from El Pilar, it follows an identifiable sheep trail past the stunning Laguna Capri before climbing to the top. Proper footwear and clothing are essential for this steep mountain route.

Camping in the Mt. Fitz Roy Zone

Several basic campgrounds lie within proximity to the Mt. Fitz Roy area for those wishing to spend multiple days exploring. Camping Los Perros located roughly halfway between El Chaltén and El Pilar, provides scenic pitches, picnic areas and outdoor cooking shelters amid lenga forest. For a true wilderness experience, seek permission from the El Chaltén local park rangers to disperse camp further into Lago del Desierto area. Booking accommodations in El Chaltén versus camping allows for comfortable home-base access to these remote day hikes.

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Venturing into Volcanic Patagonia

While most visitors focus their time in Chilean and Argentinean Patagonia along the Andes mountain range and coastlines, venturing east opens up a unique volcanic Patagonia landscape. The remote Puyehue-Cordón Caulle volcanic chain park receives a fraction of tourism compared to its western counterparts despite boasting iconic volcanic scenery.

Hiking Volcano Puyehue

Accessible via rough gravel roads from San Carlos de Bariloche in Argentina, Volcán Puyehue towers over pastoral farmlands coated with native lenga, ñire, and coihue. Classified as an active stratovolcano, its iconic cone shape blankets the terrain in volcanic ash and pumice. A 9km fully waymarked loop trail encircles the volcano through temperate rainforest with views of the crater. For the adventurous, off-trail ascents requiring climbing experience, they can summit the volcano’s peak. Nearby basic campgrounds serve as ideal bases.

Trekking Cordón Caulle

Further north, near Puente Ñiquen, the Cordón Caulle geological fault line forms a 10km stretch of volcanic cinder cones, craters, and multi-colored pumice desert created during a historic 2011 eruption. Several developed loops and trails weave through this otherworldly terrain, such as the 5-6 hour Sendero Los Huemules circuit. For advanced trekkers, overnight backcountry traverses link the cones together with camping among the volcanic scenery. Lake crossings require proper preparation and river fording skills. Guided tours are available from Bariloche for those without vehicles.

Lodging Near the Volcanoes

Southeast of San Carlos de Bariloche, the small town of Villa La Angostura provides basic services and gateway access to Parque Provincial Volcán Puyehue. Family-run hostels, lodges, and refugios line the scenic shores of Nahuel Huapi Lake. Camping Los Arrayanes, located between Villa la Angostura and Bariloche, has spacious pitches near lakeside dunes. Farther afield, Estancia Peulla in rural Chubut Province offers luxury accommodations with countryside activities like horseback riding and volcano views. Advance reservations are wise.

Frequently Asked Questions

How safe are these remote routes if solo traveling?

While Patagonia’s wilderness carries inherent risks, solo travel is possible if following basic safety precautions. Stick to developed trails, carry proper map/navigation gear, notify someone of your plans/expected return day and monitor weather forecasts closely. Cell coverage is sparse, so account for potential emergency situations. Early starts allow time to turn back if needed. Advanced avalanche/volcanic/river training is advised for technical routes.

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What gear/clothing do I need for the hikes/camping?

Patagonian weather is notoriously changeable, so dressing in moisture-wicking layers for maximum insulation and flexibility is key. Bring a waterproof/windproof jacket and pants, warm fleece/down top and bottom layers, sturdy hiking boots, gaiters, gloves, and a hat. Carry extra food, rain gear, warm clothes, first aid kit, headlamp, map/compass, and bivouac shelter for overnight trips. Summer evenings near lakes/volcanoes may require a lightweight sleeping bag. Proper equipment significantly increases enjoyment and safety.

What time of year is best to visit?

The most popular visiting season is from November to March when daylight hours are the longest and weather conditions are most stable. Mid-summer (January/February) experiences average milder temperatures, though rain/snow can still occur. April receives more rain, while May brings cooler and potentially snowier conditions. Spring and fall feature colorful wildflower displays and fewer visitors but less predictable weather windows. Flexible itineraries accommodate changing plans. Advance transportation bookings are wise.

How developed are campsites/facilities along routes?

Campsite infrastructure varies widely depending on location. National park campgrounds like those in Los Glaciares and Nahuel Huapi offer developed amenities like bathrooms, picnic tables, and fire pits. Dispersed camping further afield relies more on Leave No Trace ethics, with few facilities beyond basic pitches. Bring essential camping gear like a tent, sleep pad/bag, portable stove, and dehydrated meals. Treat or boil water from streams. Fires may be prohibited in some areas.

What transportation options are there without a vehicle?

While having a 4WD vehicle expands access to more remote trailheads, independent travel is feasible. Public transportation like buses connects many of the larger towns and can drop off at trailheads. However, schedules are often infrequent, and connections between routes are limited. Book bus travel in advance, especially during the high season. Hiking between destinations extends the time needed. Another option is to join an organized tour from Calafate, Bariloche, or El Chaltén, which includes transportation, guiding, and accommodation between activities. Hitchhiking is also commonly practiced locally, but some personal safety risks exist. Advance planning compensates for fewer transportation options.

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