Guyana is a tiny South American country located on the northeastern coast, sandwiched between Venezuela, Suriname, and the Atlantic Ocean. Despite being the only English-speaking country in South America, Guyana remains little known to most travelers. This secluded destination offers visitors a unique opportunity to discover untouched colonial towns boasting Caribbean charm, away from the crowds and resorts often associated with the Caribbean. Moreover, Guyana’s diverse cultural influences have given rise to a rich culinary heritage worth exploring off the beaten path.
A Brief Introduction to Guyana’s History and Culture
Appreciating Guyana’s culinary and architectural delights helps one understand the country’s diverse cultural influences. Guyana was first colonized by the Dutch in the 16th century, with control later transitioning to the British in the 18th century. Plantation economies introduced African slaves to work the sugar crops. By the 19th century, indentured laborers from India were brought in to work the plantations as well.
This turbulent history left Guyana with a population comprising six major ethnic groups – Amerindians, Africans, Indians, Mixed, Europeans, and Chinese. Each group has imparted aspects of its language, religion, and cuisine to Guyana’s present-day culture. For instance, while English is the official language, you’ll also hear Guyanese Creole English, a dialect influenced by African languages. Hindu and Muslim festivals are also observed nationally alongside Christian traditions.
Culinary influences are likewise blended. Classic Guyanese dishes like pepperpot (a stew of meat and vegetables) reflect the country’s African roots. Roti, curry, and coconut-based sweets point to South Asian seasoning. The national passion for doubles – bara enriched with curried chickpeas – exemplifies Guyana’s delicious cultural fusion. With cuisine deeply entwined in its people’s stories, Guyana offers food adventures that intrigue both the belly and soul.
Exploring Historic Colonial Towns
Beyond Georgetown, Guyana’s largest city and former capital, charming colonial river towns await discovery further inland, relatively untouched by mass tourism. Floating down the winding Demerara River by boat, three destinations stand out for their unique ambiance and architecture preserved from Guyana’s plantation days.
New Amsterdam ( population ~16,500 )
Founded in the late 17th century, New Amsterdam remains the country’s second oldest town. The quaint downtown stretches along the Demerara’s eastern bank, dotted with ornate gingerbread-trimmed buildings housing shops, restaurants and municipal offices. Wander the streets to admire period architecture in myriad states of preservation – from pristinely restored structures to those gradually reclaimed by lush vegetation.
Despite modern infrastructure like new homes on the outskirts, New Amsterdam’s heritage core has thankfully resisted development pressures. Stop for a stroll along the riverfront promenade or cool off with a refreshing lassi from one of the local parlors. On weekends, don’t miss the vibrant craft market where artisans sell local handicrafts between delicious double stalls. New Amsterdam makes for a picturesque half or full-day exploration, easily accessible by car or speedboat from the capital.
Corriverton (population ~33,000)
Founded in the late 18th century, Corriverton sits across the Corentyne River from the former Dutch settlement of Nickerie in neighboring Suriname. Its location as a river port trading hub led to a more ethnically diverse population compared to plantation towns like New Amsterdam.
Today, sections of Corriverton still feel removed from mainstream Guyanese life, with identifiable neighborhoods that developed around the predominant cultures of early settlers – Carib, Portuguese, African, and Indian. Wander through the quiet streets absorbing glimpses of daily life – from children playing cricket to women preparing curry. Take time to chat with friendly locals, sampling delicacies like baked shrimp or callaloo soup along the way.
As darkness falls, don’t miss the vibrant Hindu nights around the Chowtal or Ramayana recitals at the area temples. Corriverton offers a more intimate glimpse into Guyana’s ethnic patchwork, far from the touristic crowds along Georgetown’s seawalls.
Linden (population ~33,000)
Situated inland along the Demerara River, Linden emerged in the early 20th century as an industrial town centered around the massive ALCOA aluminum smelting plant. Venture beyond the factories along Well Road for architectural surprises like Dutch colonial and Caribbean-style wooden homes.
Continue on to the bustling Center of Town neighborhood, where Colonial-era buildings now house shops, eateries and the Heritage Square Park. Stop for an ice cream or snack from one of the many street vendors, enjoy live music or people watch from the park benches. Further east lies Mackenzie, a charming residential suburb of colorful wooden houses reminiscent of coastal Guyanese communities.
Linden makes for an engaging day trip from Georgetown to appreciate another facet of Guyana’s architectural heritage and experience a livelier local atmosphere distinct from its river settlements. Just be sure to explore on weekends when stores and eateries are in full swing.
Culinary Adventures Off the Beaten Path
Beyond just sightseeing Guyana’s well-preserved colonial gems, delving into the country’s diverse culinary offerings provides a true taste of its blended cultural influences. Away from resorts catering to foreign palates, local restaurants, and home cooks preserve dynamic foodways passed down through generations.
Taste Home-Cooked Specialties in New Amsterdam
No trip to New Amsterdam is complete without sampling the area’s signature fare. Don’t miss Mrs. Jadon’s Kitchen inside the Kara Kara Market – a tiny canteen run out of a home dishing out authentic pepperpot stew, saltfish fried bake and other Afro-Guyanese specialties. Next door, Hot Spot provides hearty doubles and juice combos that locals swear by.
For luxurious river views alongside Indo-Guyanese cuisine, head to Taste of India on the Strand promenade. Their thali platters present a symphony of curries alongside roti, dahl, and chutneys. Another top spot is Shanta’s on Church Street – a traditional home kitchen churning out beloved homestyle khichdi rice porridges and curries every weekend.
Sample Fiery Portuguese-Infused Cuisine in Corriverton
Corriverton’s history as a multi-ethnic port town is evident in its flavorful cuisine. Top on every foodie list is Little Rock Cafe, where tables laden with savory casseroles and stews greet patrons. Must-tries include the spicy vindaloo curry alongside calaloo or callaloo soup – a creamy spinach (or butter bean) medley bursting with Portuguese-Goan flavors and fire.
For snacks on the go, check out vendors hawking bake along Main Street. And don’t miss Miss Lucy’s Kitchen, located down a quiet street, for crabs cooked any style alongside fiery piripiri sauce. Corriverton offers a taste of Guyana with robust Caribbean and Latin influences through its community kitchens.
Enjoy Street Food Culture in Linden’s Town Center
With a vibrant Afro-Guyanese population, Linden town center bustles with stalls and vendors peddling handheld eats. Top choices around Heritage Square include Coolie’s Doubles for their renowned chickpea-filled wraps and Bankay’s Bakes further down Well Road.
For heartier plates, head to local favorite Shanta’s Restaurant, which is known for its chicken pepperpot stew and roti. Another standout is The Sweet Spot for refreshing natural fruit juices made from seasonal local picks like soursop or sugar apples. Linden Town provides a relaxed atmosphere for exploring Guyanese street foods alongside cultural performances in the park.
FAQs about Exploring Guyana’s Culinary and Colonial Gems
Now that you’ve learned about some of Guyana’s top destinations and tasty culinary finds off the beaten path, here are answers to some frequently asked questions travelers may have:
How do I get around between towns?
The easiest way is to hire a private car and driver. Major towns like New Amsterdam are only 1-2 hours from Georgetown by car on decent roads. For smaller settlements, boats provide scenic transportation along rivers. Minibuses also connect major routes, though they can be crowded and infrequent on weekends. Driving yourself allows flexibility, though navigation aids may be needed outside cities.
What’s the best time of year to visit?
The dry season from mid-August to December is ideal, with less rain and humidity. Major festivals like Phagwah (Holi) in March and Diwali in October-November also make for lively cultural experiences. The coast tends to be rainier from May to July. December to February sees increased crowds around Christmas and New Year.
Any safety or health precautions?
Guyana is generally safe to travel independently. Just practice typical precautions like not leaving valuables unattended. Dengue and malaria occur in some rural areas, so bring appropriate medications if venturing off beaten paths. Bottled water is recommended countrywide unless stated as treated/purified. Medical facilities are available in major towns/cities.
What is the local currency and exchange rates?
The local currency is the Guyanese dollar (GYD), which floats against the US dollar. As of writing, the exchange rate is approximately GYD$210 to US$1. Major banks in cities can exchange currency, and ATMs are available for withdrawing GYD. Most tourist establishments, restaurants and taxis accept US dollars as well. It’s recommended to always carry some small change in local currency for incidentals.
Any tips for negotiating prices?
Guyanese have a reputation for being friendly yet excellent bargainers. Prices at shops and markets are usually fixed, but for taxis or tours, it’s standard to ask, “What’s your best price?” Stalls will often come down slightly, especially if paying in cash versus a card. Research average costs beforehand to identify fair deals. Tipping 10-15% is customary for good service at restaurants. Being respectful yet assertive will help you navigate costs without offense during your stay.
