22 December 2024

The Shetland Islands sit farther north in the Scottish archipelago than any other part of the United Kingdom. Due to their remote northern location over 100 miles northeast of Scotland’s mainland, the islands have a uniquely scenic and unspoiled natural beauty. Rugged coastlines dotted with sea cliffs give way to secluded coves and beaches. Ruins of old Norse broch towers peek out from grassy hillsides. Friendly Shetland ponies graze on flower-speckled meadows near quaint harbor towns. It’s an ideal locale for stepping back in time and experiencing Scotland’s natural wonders without the crowds. The islands’ rural coastal trails provide the perfect way to soak in the fairytale-like scenery with just the calming sounds of the sea and shore accompanying each adventurous footstep.

A Brief History of the Shetland Islands

The Shetland Islands have a mix of Scandinavian and Scottish cultural influences due to their location between these two regions. Genetic studies show that the population has significant Norse heritage, as compared to Viking settlers who arrived between the 8th and 15th centuries. Place names on maps also reflect Old Norse language origins. The islands came under Scottish rule in 1469 when they were pledged as part of a dowry for a marriage alliance between Scotland and Denmark-Norway. Traditional crofting village life involving subsistence farming of small land parcels persisted for centuries. More recently, the island’s economy has come to rely on fishing, fish processing, and the oil industry situated offshore in the North Sea. The islands maintained much of their historic rustic way of life longer than other parts of Scotland due to their remoteness. This has allowed a uniqueness of folklore, dialect, and traditional crafts to endure.

Pristine Coastlines For Exploring

One of the main attractions of the Shetland Islands is the opportunity to wander peaceful coastal trails amid unspoiled scenery. Miles of cliffs, coves, and rocky shorelines provide photo opportunities galore, whether spending a day hiking or just stopping to take in ocean vistas along driveable roads. Some of the best coastal walks for soaking in natural beauty include Eshaness on Unst Island, Lamba Ness on Fetlar, and Moussleys on Whalsay.

Eshaness, Unst Island

At the northernmost tip of Unst, Eshaness Nature Reserve contains some of Shetland’s most dramatically rugged scenery. A network of walking trails weaves along the clifftops overlooking the ocean below. Look for seabirds nesting on rocky pinnacles or sunbathing gray seals lounging on seaweed-covered rocks. Remnants of crofting villages dating back to the 18th-century remnants can still be seen. The terrain is rocky, and path elevation varies, so sturdy footwear is recommended. The sense of wide-open solitude while taking in the endless vista of sea meeting sky here is otherworldly. Plan at least 2-3 hours to adequately explore this dramatic coastline.

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Lamba Ness, Fetlar Island

On the easternmost isle of Fetlar, Lamba Ness’ coastal footpath provides scenic seascapes contrasting mossy green hillsides with azure waters. Wildflowers like thrift and red campion add splashes of color along the way. Keep an eye out for seabirds hovering above seaweed-strewn rocky shores or otters playing in small rocky pools. Ruins of an old lime kiln dating to the 19th century can be spotted. Much of this hike follows grassy coastal cliffs, making it easier to walk than Eshaness. Figure 1-2 hours, depending on how many photo stops are taken along the fascinating coastline.

Moussleys, Whalsay Island

A 3-mile driving loop road circumnavigates Whalsay Island, passing dramatic sea cliff areas like Moussleys. Stop where roadside laybys offer views down 150-foot sea cliffs crashing with waves. Keep children and curious dogs safely back from precipitous drop-offs. Fascinating rock formations have been sculpted by the relentless Atlantic Ocean. Bring a picnic to enjoy ocean panoramas while eating lunch on a sunny day. No special hiking gear is needed – simply soak up coastal beauty directly from your car or with a brief leg-stretching stroll along coastal edges.

Rocky Isle Beauty: Other Notable Coastal Areas

Besides the main trail highlighted routes, numerous other scenic coastal areas on Shetland’s various islands invite casual exploration. A few other notable spots for taking in natural seaside beauty on rural roads or trails include:

St Ninian’s Isle, Shetland Mainland

Connected to the mainland at low tide, this small grassy islet contains dramatic standing stones and ancient cross slabs from the 8th-12th centuries AD. Wander calm tidal sands and appreciate the peaceful atmosphere.

Sumburgh Head, Shetland Mainland

England’s most northerly point offers stretches of cliff walking with seabirds, gray seals, and often whales visible offshore. Its iconic lighthouse makes for classic photos.

Hermaness National Nature Reserve, Unst Island

Grassy cliffs are sheltering ponds with breeding seabirds. Chance to spot otters, grey seals, and migrating whales. Bogs contain rare arctic alpine plants.

Muckle Roe, Rousay Island

Rolling green hills drop dramatically to the sea. Follow grassy paths absorbing expansive ocean vistas and spotting wildlife such as puffins in season.

Westside, Foula Island

Basic infrastructure but is ruggedly scenic. Contact islanders for permission before any visit to this remote western isle. Peaceful and unspoiled beauty.

Sample Itineraries for Coastal Trail Experiences

Now that you’ve gotten a taste of the scenic coastal splendors to discover in Shetland, here are a few suggested itineraries to help you get the most out of your rustic island trail adventures:

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Unst Island – 2 Days/1 Night

  • Day 1: Hike the dramatic cliffs at Eshaness Nature Reserve (3 hours). Spend the evening in Baltasound.
  • Day 2: Visit Hermaness National Nature Reserve (2 hours). Stop at the Qui Ness cafe and take stroll around the headland. Ferry back to Mainland for late afternoon return.

Fetlar and Whalsay Islands – 1 Day

  • Ferry to Fetlar and hike the Lamba Ness coastal path (1.5 hours). Picnic lunch with views.
  • Afternoon ferry transfer to Whalsay. Drive scenic roads, stopping at laybys like Moussleys (1-2 hours). Return ferry before dusk.

Shetland Mainland Highlights – 2-3 Days

  • Day 1: Hike cliffs at Sumburgh Head (2-3 hours). Visit the Jarlshof archaeological site. Camp or B&B in Lerwick.
  • Day 2: Scenic drives along west coast beaches. Wander sands at St Ninian’s Isle (1 hour). Return to Lerwick.
  • Day 3 (optional): Drive north to Eshaness via scenic inland lochs. Picnic at Eshaness before return trip south.

Practical Tips for Your Coastal Hiking Adventures

Now that you’ve gotten an overview of the picturesque trails and coastlines awaiting discovery, here are some practical tips to help plan the perfect rustic hiking experience in Shetland:

Seasons

May-July offers the mildest weather, but expect changeable conditions year-round. August-September gain daylight, but the chance of rain increases.

Accommodation

Limited options – book well ahead from March–September. Self-catering cottages, B&Bs, and campsites are available.

Ferries

Advance booking is essential for car transport between islands from May to August. Bikes can be taken without reservation.

Terrain

Uneven, rocky ground with pockets of deep, boggy peat. Stout waterproof footwear is crucial. Some trails are unmarked – use map and compass skills. Carry rain gear and snacks.

Tides & Weather

Check tides to hike coastal paths – cut off risk at high waters. Weather can worsen suddenly – turn back if conditions deteriorate.

Wildlife Respect

Give birds/seals space when viewing. No dogs during bird breeding season, keep on lead at other times on nature reserves. Check permits needed for any planned fieldwork.

Mobile Reception

Very limited cell coverage outside of main towns. Carry a map and tell someone reliable your plans and expected return time.

Being prepared for changeable oceanic conditions and isolated natural environment will help ensure safe and enjoyable hiking experiences amid Shetland’s rustic coastal landscapes. Proper planning using local expertise and tide tables should allow fully immersing in the fairytale-like scenery.

Getting to and Around the Scottish Islands

With no roads connecting the islands, accessing and exploring coastal trails requires using some combo of plane, ferry, or self-drive. Public transport options are best from the main hubs in Lerwick (Shetland Mainland) or Kirkwall (Orkney).

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Fly to Shetland

Flights from Edinburgh, Aberdeen, and Inverness take only an hour on direct routes with Loganair or Eastern Airways. Taxis connect the Sumburgh airport to ferry terminals.

Inter-Island Ferries

NorthLink Ferries provides vehicle and passenger services between Aberdeen and Lerwick/Kirkwall year-round. An overnight journey takes 22 hours each way.

Shetland Islands Council operates the inter-island ferries, with regular connections from Mainland to islands like Yell, Unst, Fetlar and Whalsay. Bikes can be taken but space is first-come-first-served during summer.

Self-drive and Car Rental

Driving allows independence to access more remote coastal areas. Major car rental firms like Arnold Clark operate at airports. Be aware of single-track rural roads and left-hand drive. Off-road driving is prohibited to protect fragile environments.

Public Buses

Shetland Mobility runs year-round island bus services connecting towns and ferry terminals on a scheduled timetable. However, options to reach more secluded coastal trailheads will require a bike or car.

Guided Tours

For those without vehicles, Shetland Outdoor Travel offers minibus tours to highlights like Eshaness for guided walks. Private groups can also charter taxis.

With an adventurous spirit and flexibility using the various transport links, you’ll find exploring the Shetlands’ pristine coastal paths deeply rewarding. Proper planning is key to navigating between islands to make the most of your time amid the fairytale scenery.

Trail Etiquette and Safety in Shetland’s Coastal Environments

Responsible hiking etiquette is especially important when enjoying fragile natural areas. Following leave-no-trace principles helps protect trails for future generations.

Leave No Trace

  • Pack out all litter and never abandon equipment.
  • Use established trails and boardwalks near sensitive habitats. Avoid new “desire lines” for protection.
  • Respect farming land – keep dogs leashed near livestock and gates closed.
  • Protect wildlife by observing quietly from a distance with binoculars if needed.

Trail Safety

  • Conditions change fast due to oceanic climate – carry rain gear and snacks, spare batteries/chargers.
  • Tell someone your plans and expected return time in case of an emergency.
  • Check tide timetables before coastal walks and know the hazards of rising waters cutting off paths.
  • Watch weather forecasts and turn back before worsening conditions arise. Blizzards and high winds create white-out risk.
  • Take caution near steep cliff edges – uneven rock surfaces can shift underfoot after rain.

Being stewards of these fragile lands through responsible and safety-minded behavior ensures their beauty remains for generations of hikers who have yet to discover the splendors of Shetland’s accessible wilderness. With care and common sense, you can fully immerse in the tranquility of coastal trails without a trace of your visit.

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